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The most lethal weapon on the battlefield is not the gun, but the man behind it.
The road to Mhow feels almost too peaceful – the trees arching overhead, their branches whispering with the wind, and the small cantonment town nestled in the valley, appearing serene. Yet, behind this calm exterior lies a world far from tranquil. It's only when you cross the gates of Infantry School that the true intensity of the place reveals itself. Here, silence is not absence; it is the sound of focus, discipline, and the quiet before the storm.
At Mhow, the soldiers are trained not just to fight, but to think, to breathe, to be in battle. The heart of the school beats to the rhythm of a singular creed: 'Ek Goli, Ek Dushman' — One bullet, one enemy.
Here the air is thick with mist or the dust from the fierce practice routine. Through the fog, soldiers in camouflage glide like shadows, rifles at the ready. Their movements are seamless, almost ethereal, as if the mist itself is guiding them – silent, deadly, precise. It's a sight that calls to mind the scenes from war films, but this is no Hollywood production. There are no takes, no special effects. This is real. This is the birthplace of India's warriors.
At Mhow, the soldiers are trained not just to fight, but to think, to breathe, to be in battle. The heart of the school beats to the rhythm of a singular creed: 'Ek Goli, Ek Dushman' —One bullet, one enemy.
It's a principle that transcends technique and equipment. It's about the man behind the rifle – his will, his focus, his spirit. Snipers, in particular, embody this ethos. Theirs is a craft of precision, akin to that of a surgeon with a scalpel, cutting through the chaos of war with deadly accuracy. Much like Arjuna, who could see only the bird's eye, they are trained to tune out everything – the noise, the pressure, even their own heartbeat – until only the target remains.
At Mhow, they don't just learn to shoot; they learn to become one with the weapon. Every movement, every breath, every pull of the trigger is a part of something much larger.
And then, in a flash, the sound rings out, "Headshot kill." In that split second, you understand what it takes. It's not just about hitting a target. It's about ignoring all distractions, about becoming a force of nature. At Mhow, they don't just learn to shoot; they learn to become one with the weapon. Every movement, every breath, every pull of the trigger is a part of something much larger. The real challenge isn't the bullet. It's the mind behind it.
The history of Infantry School dates back to 1888, when the British Indian Army first established the School of Musketry at Changla Gali. From there, it moved across various locations – Satara, Belgaum, Pachmarhi, Jhansi, and Dehradun – before settling in Mhow in 1948. Over the years, it has transformed into the world's largest and oldest infantry training institution. More than just a school, it has become a crucible where every lesson, every technique, and every strategy contributes to the way the Indian Army fights – in deserts, mountains, jungles, and urban warfare.
As one seasoned instructor told me, his eyes hard with experience, "When the last round is fired, when the last order is given, it is the infantryman who holds the ground. Always!"
Mhow's air reverberates with the sounds of controlled chaos, a symphony of weaponry that's far more than just tools of war. Here, soldiers train with the very instruments that make them formidable:
However, the paradox of Mhow's arsenal lies in the fact that the true weapon is not the rifle or grenade; it is the soldier himself. The rifle may be the instrument of war, but it is the infantryman who breathes life into it.
While the legacy of Mhow is steeped in tradition, the future is unmistakably clear. Alongside rifles and mortars, new-age technology is now integral to training. Indigenous drones hum in ISR roles, simulators run electronic warfare drills, and doctrines are being developed for AI-driven warfare and loitering munitions.
The intensity of training at Mhow is most evident in the Combat Test of Elementary Training. This gruelling exercise is one of the most demanding and rigorous I observed, pushing soldiers to their absolute limits while demanding excellence in weapon handling under extreme exhaustion. A demo unfolded right in front of me - the clock is set for eight minutes – just 480 seconds – to demonstrate mastery over weaponry, deception, and quick-thinking under pressure.
Amidst a war-simulated backdrop of dust clouds and palpable tension, the scene unfolds:
There are no excuses here. This test isn't just about fitness; it's about soldiers learning to fight, think, and execute flawlessly under the kind of pressure they would face in real combat.
A short distance from the sniper ranges lies another vital component of the Indian Army's marksmanship prowess – the Army Marksmanship Unit (AMU). Here, the focus shifts from combat to competition, where soldiers refine their skills for Olympic glory. I had the chance to try some shots firsthand. The AMU has produced several notable champions:
"The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil. And while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles." — Col. Jeff Cooper
The same soil that trains soldiers for war also shapes them into Olympians. Different battles, different arenas, but the same core discipline and precision.
While the legacy of Mhow is steeped in tradition, the future is unmistakably clear. Alongside rifles and mortars, new-age technology is now integral to training. Indigenous drones hum in ISR roles, simulators run electronic warfare drills, and doctrines are being developed for AI-driven warfare and loitering munitions.
But one truth remains unchanged: while tomorrow's wars may be fought with algorithms and drones, it is still the infantryman who will hold the ground.
As I left Mhow, a singular paradox echoed in my mind. Weapons change, tactics evolve, and technology advances. But in the end, when the last bullet is fired and the battlefield is silent, it is the infantryman who remains standing.
Infantry School, Mhow, is more than just a training ground. It is the soul of soldiering in India. And in the chambers of its history, one creed rings louder than gunfire: 'Ek Goli, Ek Dushman' —One bullet, one enemy.
At Mhow, it is not just a motto; it is a promise — a promise that the legacy of India's infantrymen will endure, on the battlefield and beyond.
The AK-203 assault rifle is being manufactured in India under the Indo-Russian joint venture Indo-Russia Rifles Private Limited (IRRPL) at Korwa, Amethi (Uttar Pradesh).
The AK-203 represents both a major upgrade in infantry firepower and a step forward in India's defence self-reliance.
The soil of Mhow has nurtured some of India's greatest heroes, legends who have walked these same training grounds and etched their names in history. These names are not just written on walls; they are alive in the ethos of the school: